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| NEKitesurfing - First Time Buyers Guide | |
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NEKitesurfing - First Time Buyers Guide
Kitesurfing and powerkiting have evolved very rapidly since they began. This document is aimed, as a guide to what equipment is needed to take up powerkiting and kitesurfing. The range of equipment out there is vast and it can be quite confusing so I hope this guide will help you get the right kit first time around. It takes you through all of the essentials, equipment I would recommend if you can afford it and where applicable, the equipment you really must try and avoid.
Powerkiting:
Essentials:
1) Initial purchase should be in the region of 2 – 4 m squared. You should aim to get a 4 line foil that can be flown on handles or a bar.
2) The foil should have a safety system that can be attached to the brake lines such as kite killers. If not, you will need to buy this as an extra item.
Recommended:
1) You should also purchase a kite stake in order to help you manage the kite whilst on your own, particularly during setup, launch and land.
2) A wind meter will be invaluable to give you guidance on the safety limits of your kite given the wind conditions.
Kitesurfing:
Essentials:
1) Kite – You will obviously need a kitesurfing kite. Today there is vast range of kites on the market and it can be quite confusing for someone starting out. I would recommend you get a Bow / SLE / Hybrid style kitesurfing kite. These kites were brought out in 2006 and radically changed the kitesurfing market due to their massive wind range and ultimately their huge depower and easy water relaunch. This has made kitesurfing much safer and easier to learn. As a result you will benefit most from this type of kite whilst learning.
Some kites have different aspect ratios. The aspect ratio of the kite affects the amount of lift a kite can produce and also affects stability. As a general rule go for low to medium aspect kites as these are stable, easier to relaunch and provide less lift (they will still provide lift when you want them to but won’t surprise you when you make a mistake!).
A students weight is very important when deciding on a kite. Different makes of kites have differing amounts of power per square meter but as a general rule for bow / SLE / Hybrid kites, my advice is as follows depending on how many kites you can afford.
| Weight | 1 kite Quiver | 2 kite quiver |
| < 70 kg | 9m | 7m & 11m |
| 70 - 90 kg | 11m | 9m & 13m |
| > 90kg | 11m or 13m | 9m & 13m or 11m & 15m |
2) Kite Bar – This will normally come with the kite unless you are buying second hand. It is best to go with the bar that comes with the kite as this has been trimmed and setup exactly for the specified kite.
3) Lines – These will normally come with the bar. Your kite will either be a 4 line or 5 line kite. If you need to buy separate lines, the general line length is between 22m and 27m. The shorter the lines, the more responsive the kite but it will also generate less power as it has less distance to travel in the power window before it reaches the edge. Longer lines will therefore provide more power but will be slower turning.
4) Pump – Again, these normally come with a new kite. If you need to buy a pump separately, try to get ones with steel shafts and the plastic ones are prone to snapping!
5) Board – You will need to get a ‘twintip’ style board. These are symmetrical at either end which means that you can ride the board in either direction without having to gybe (a difficult skill to master). These twintips come in many different shapes and sizes but as a general rule, beginners want a board that is easy to learn on but also one that they won’t grow out of quickly so they don’t have to spend yet more money in a few months. The board size to go for is also dependant on your weight. The heavier you are the bigger the board you will need to get up and planning. As a general rule I would recommend boards ranging from 137cm – 147cm in length and 39-45cm wide. If you are less than 70kg I would veer towards the smaller end of this range and those who are over 90kg towards the larger end.
6) Harness – Again, there is a large array of harnesses on the market, with 2 main types, seat harnesses and waist harnesses. Some people have an immediate preference after trying one on but there’s not much between them. Seat harnesses provide beginners / intermediates with a bit more support when learning whilst waist harnesses provide kitesurfers with a bit more freedom when there moving onto kitesurfing tricks. It really is up to you but it is more important to get a good fit with a waist harness in order to stop it riding up your body as it has no straps going between your legs to hold it down. When measuring your waist to choose a harness size, remember to take into account the wetsuit that you’ll be wearing.
7) Wetsuit – A full length wetsuit is required in the UK. They come in a variety of thicknesses. For example a 4x3x2mm means that the body of the wetsuit is 4mm whilst the legs are 3mm and the arms are 2mm. If you are going to kite predominantly in the North Sea I would recommend you go nothing less than a 5x4x3 as it is the coldest sea in the UK – particularly in Feb! It’s important to get a good fit, so however tempting, it is always best to try it on before buying.
8) Helmet – I strongly recommend you get a helmet whilst learning kitesurfing. A kitesurf board and it’s fins are hard and sharp and you will be falling off a lot initially so it’s a good idea to protect your bonce! It’s important to get the size right. Sizes of helmet refer to the length around your forehead so measure this first before ordering. Also, make sure that the helmet your buying is a water specific one. If not, it wont be long before the inside lining falls apart.
9) Wind meter – When your starting out it’s difficult to judge what the wind speed is. It’s really important for you to determine the range at which you can use your quiver of kites. This will save you going out when the winds are too strong and putting yourself in danger. It will also stop you setting up your kite when there isn’t enough wind – everyone has done this and it gets really frustrating after a while!
10) Line Cutter – It’s important to have a kitesurfing specific line cutter on you at all times when you kitesurf. This can be used as a last resort to freeing yourself if you got tangled. This is very unlikely to happen but it puts your mind at rest that you could get out of this potentially nasty situation. Line cutters can come with the harness so it’s worth checking yours otherwise you can buy them separately – they don’t break the bank!
Recommended:
1) Heavy Duty kite stake – This is good for helping yourself out with solo launching and landing. You shouldn’t kitesurf on your own but even when in a group, someone has to go out last or come in first.
2) Boots – From the end of October to the beginning of May most kitesurfers need to wear boots in the North Sea. When you buy boots, make sure they are for surfing / kitesurfing / windsurfing. Diving and sailing boots have too thick a sole which makes it very difficult to get your feet in your footstraps (even if they are adjustable).
3) Gloves – As above, from the end of October to the beginning of May the water in the North Sea gets very cold meaning you’ll need a pair of gloves. Make sure there not too thick as this can cause your hand to cramp up if you fly a kite with relatively heavy bar pressure. Don’t go for anything greater than 3mm thick.
4) Rash Vest – If you find that your wetsuit rubs after a while you might need to get a rash vest. It can also be more comfortable. If you get a UV protective one then you can also use it to prevent sunburn you when you go kitesurfing in those exotic locations.
5) Progression DVDs – These video’s are great for any kitesurfer wanting to progress. There is a beginner, intermediate and advanced series and I’ve gone through each one myself and found them all extremely useful. They really do help you advance to the next level quickly.
Avoid:
1) High Aspect Kites – These kites are designed to give maximum lift and as a result of their design, are less stable and harder to relaunch. As a result they should be left in intermediate / expert hands only.
2) Fixed / Coiled Leashes – This is a big NO. You should practise body dragging until you are comfortable retrieving your own board when you wipe out. However, if you need to use a leash because you kitesurf in locations that have strong currents or big waves then I would recommend a reel leash as these have a retractable coil that allows the board to fall a good distance away from you and then recoils the board back slowly towards you. Fixed leashes on the other hand are elastic and can throw the board very quickly towards a kitesurfer when it releases it’s drag from the water. This has on many occasions resulted in a nasty injury so please avoid this type of leash. If you use any type of leash (even a reel leash) you must wear a helmet.
3) Small Boards – It is always tempting to go straight onto a small board but it will slow your progression significantly and make learning feel like an up hill struggle. A small board is designed for riding in powered up conditions which is suited to intermediate and advanced riders. When you are learning, you will want to give yourself a helping hand by having a board with a bit of extra volume. A larger board will be more forgiving when you make mistakes and will keep you moving even when you makes mistakes with the kite.
4) Very large boards – In the early days kitesurfing boards were very large (160 – 190 cm long). These supported early kitesurfers who typically used much smaller kites than we use today. These boards can often be found very cheaply in the 2nd hand market. I would resist going for one of these boards as you will outgrow it within about 3 sessions once you are up and riding. Boards this large are cumbersome to ride and do not handle chop well either.
5) Directional boards – These boards are similar to a windsurfing or surfboard but quite often much smaller. They can only be ridden in 1 direction and must be gybed in order to change direction. A gybe is a difficult skill to master, even for an intermediate / expert kitesurfer so please avoid these types of boards until you have got to grips with the basics.
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